I am eating so well on this book tour. I just have to give a shout out to all of the chefs who are cooking up fabulous local, authentic meals. Here is a rundown of some of the great places I’ve hit along the way. I’ll continue to blog/Tweet/FB my meals so you can see what’s cookin’ and give these joints a try when you are in town. Thank you cooks for your dedication to local growers and producers, your skilled attention to food traditions old and new and for the chance to sit at your table.
Baltimore
I had a little pit stop off in Baltimore before I took the canning party on the road.
Homemade Crab cakes
My mom makes the BEST crab cakes. It’s partly due to her secret recipe and partly because she searches out the freshest, most fantastic Maryland crabmeat. Pulled right from the bay, steamed up and hand picked. Her favorite place right now is Fifers. They’re a family owned seafood market/restaurant. Their crab is the real deal—sweat, plump and tender—a complete 180 from the flavorless, dry imported meat and even vastly different from the Texas crab often served in Baltimore in the winter when Chesapeake Bay crabs don’t run. Unparalleled goodness.
New Orleans
My favorite place in the world. I go back every chance I get and each time it gets a little harder to leave.
Parkway Bakery and Tavern
Parkway Bakery is always the first place I hit when I visit New Orleans. It’s a neighborhood Po’Boy joint that straddles the Mid-City and Bayou St. John neighborhoods that was recommended to my by the glorious Ms. Poppy Tooker and I am forever indebted. Chef Justin is a self-taught Louisiana native who takes his sourcing seriously. When I was there—in the wake of the disastrous BP oil fiasco—he had been forced to take oysters, their beds so deeply damaged by the spill, off the menu but he was still able to get his hands on some local shrimp and that’s what I had. Shrimp Po’ Boy dressed with lettuce, tomato and mayo on their fine French bread, with an Abita beer and a side of Zapp’s Potato Chips. If I could only have one meal in New Orleans, it would be a Parkway Po’Boy!
Luke
This John Besh restaurant was the perfect place to meet up with some dear New Orleanian friends. They all had platters of chilled oysters to start. I dove into a crock of Berkshire Pork rillettes (I was on a pig jag in New Orleans). Then I moved onto shrimp and grits. New Orleans has the best shrimp in the world—so sweet and tender—I eat them almost every meal when I’m there. The shrimpers face a lot of challenges—not the least of which is the BP mess in the Gulf. It’s important to support them so they can keep bringing in their great catch. As my friend Poppy says, you’ve got to eat it to save it!
Domenica
I met Chef Alon Shaya in the Crescent City market where he is a dedicated shopper. I was flattered that he picked up a copy of “Put ‘em Up!” at my demo there and took him up on his invite to come check out Domenica, where he is the Executive Chef. Lordy, lordy, this is a man who shares my kink for the cure! He is putting up his own salumi—so tasty and served with hot little savory beignets and a relish tray of all kinds of preserved goodies. Then he had his bartender sample out some of his custom liquor infusions. Zowie, the flavors were amazing—a deeply herbaceous concoction reminiscent of Cinar, the best limonacella I’ve every tasted (he uses a special technique to extract just the lemon oil from the fruit so you get none of the bitter flavor of the pith), and a coffee infusion to finish it off. I was a happy girl at Domenica!
Cochon
My, oh, my. As the name indicates, Cochon is a home run for those who dig the pig. Not that there aren’t other items there to enjoy but with Bourbon flowing, rows of house cured goodies lined up in Ball jars on most available surfaces, and an interior that is both upscale and down home, this is the place to get your pork on. Paneed pork cheeks were succulent on the inside, crisped on the outside and served with some quick pickled radishes that added some perk in just the right places. A slow-roasted suckling pig came as a roulade of tender meat encased in shellacked-till-crisp auburn brown skin. The waitress suggested the mushroom salad which was not something an eater zeroing in on their carnivorous zone would aim for—even with it’s secret weapon of house cured beef jerky—but what a delight; paper thin slices of white mushrooms tossed with chewy shards of that jerky and slivers of fried lemons in a vinaigrette that “cooks” the mushrooms a la ceviche. Crazy good. My mouth’s watering just writing about it.
Eat
Petunia’s used to be my go-to place for breakfast in the French Quarter. Since I’ve been coming to New Orleans, it was my Screwdriver/Gumbo/Omelette set-me-right again morning feast. One day when the line was long and I was feeling just a little too local to wait in it I popped into the new-comer just down the corner on Daumaine and Dauphine. Eat delivered then and still does, one of the finest southern breakfasts you’ll find. Here’s what I had—biscuits with sausage gravy, fried green tomatoes and my husband’s grits (He only likes them when they’re called polenta. Good! More for me). They don’t serve booze, but you can carry in your go-cup if you need an engine revver.
Dooky Chase
I was pleased to make my pilgrimage to Dooky Chase—the revered restaurant that has filled the bellies of musicians, civil rights leaders and visiting presidents. It’s a cherished spot but it’s halo didn’t keep the waters from Katrina from nearly closing its doors. I remember the talk in the city of the possibility that this place might not make it back on its feet after the storm. If you pull up into the Treme to eat there you’ll agree it’s a miracle that it still stands at all—one building in a sea of still empty, many demolished storm-ravaged buildings that used to make up one of the most vibrant neighborhoods in New Orleans. I was happy to see the doors on this place open, relish in the resilience of the New Orleanians and sit myself down for a meal of their fine fried chicken. Thank you Ms. Chase.
Carousel Bar @ The Monteleone Hotel
Ok, it doesn’t really count as a meal but if you’re in New Orleans (ok, maybe if your not) a breakfast cocktail can be a fine way to start the day. Too early for a ride on the revolving carousel bar? There are two window tables that offer the best people watching views in town. (note to Publisher: This was on my day off. Just sayin.’)
Mandina’s
Just when I thought I couldn’t eat anymore, uno mas! I snuck in one more quick bite before heading out of town. This local icon is the place to get your turtle soup. Rich from the kind of deep, dark roux that only an old hand could conger without burning it in the pot. Drizzled with a little Sherry on top, turtle soup really exemplifies New Orleans cooking for me—deep roots, local ingredients and a little elegant flair. I’m still craving this soup.
Boston
East Coast Grill
I went here on the recommendation of my good friend and fabulous chef, Michael Young. I like and trust Michael’s taste in food so, beyond looking up the address, I didn’t do any research on this joint—just showed up, kind of like a blind date with dinner. And boy, did I get lucky! Heirloom tomato salad drizzled with a warm vinaigrette and a dollop of local goat cheese was bright and tangy—the heat of the dressing teased out just a bit more flavor without wilting the fruit. For a main I had a line-caught Massachusetts Striped Bass—rich, meaty and local. Yeah, I was completely seduced. Nothing like hooking up with some good eats!
New Mexico
The Shed
So many people told me that I had to hit The Shed, it was the first place I set out for as soon as I drove into Santa Fe. It was reservation only, plus a waiting list for those willing to wait for a no-show table to open up, plus a line at the bar for those brave enough to elbow their way in for a solo seat there. Thank you to the kind host who, on seeing my forlorn “What no dinner for me?” sadface, gave me the winning strategy one needs to secure one of those precious bar stools. What a meal—I started with a little cup of green chili and pork stew. And then went onto the ultimate New Mexican taste test, comparing the battling local chili sauces—red vs. green—on one plate. I enjoyed two chicken enchiladas, one doused in green chili and the other in red. I have had a taste for green chilies ever since my client, Nancy Roper of Boxcar Cantina, turned me onto these great local hotties. But this dish opened my eyes to the charms of team rojo!
Mary and Tito’s Café
Kate Manchester, of Edible Santa Fe, too me to this Albuquerque eatery for a taste of traditional eats. It was as laid back as an old neighborhood diner with naugahyde booths and linoleum floors. Local Hispanic families filed in for lunch and I was happy to join them for the feast. I had a big plate of Enchiladas smothered in red and loved every bite.
Real Food Nation
This is a terrific little diner/drive thru that Deborah Madison turned me onto. It does all local/seasonal/sustainable and DELICIOUS easy eats. One day this will be the new fast food and we will be a better nation for it!
Next up…
Vermont! Join me! Come on out or follow me on Twitter and Facebook for my national tour of “Put ‘em Up!” canning workshops, book signings, and fabulous, fabulous farm friendly food!
